How to Cure the Winter Dahlia Blues

Do you dread the end of Dahlia season? I know I definitely miss having blooms on my table! I miss seeing luscious layers of petals all over Instagram. I’m already seeing some of my Northern friends having a frost.

Well, a few years ago, I discovered a way to cure the Dahlia Blues. You just have to take a (virtual) trip south! To the Southern Hemisphere that is!

At this time of year, flower farmers in Australia are gearing up to begin planting their dahlias. And when it’s bleak and cold here, they will be showing off blooms galore!

Today, I thought I would share with you some of my favorite farms to follow. So pull up your Instagram and get ready to go down the rabbit hole!

• @florelieseasonalflowers A Dahlia farm in Bungaree, Australia

• @the_flowering_field Burra, NSW Australia

• @southernhighlandsflowerfarm Southern Highlands, NSW Australia

• @geelong_dahlias Moolap, VIC Australia

• @serenade_farm_tamborine_mtn Tamborine Mountain, Australia
  

There are many more but these are some of my favorites! It’s really fun to learn about how dahlias are grown in other climates and parts of the world!

Coming to terms with loss....

The idea of loss in growing is something I’ve wanted to discuss for a long time now- but it’s not the most alluring topic. However, accepting that we will lose plants when growing is important.

I think most of us would agree that it’s generally been a harder than average year for growing dahlias. In fact, if this is your first year— hang in there, It’s not always this way! If you are still interested in growing dahlias after this rough year, then I’d say that I think you have what it takes to be a great dahlia grower. I feel like this year is an ideal time to talk about loss.

So let’s define what I mean when I say “loss”. I’m referring to plants dying due to rot, disease, pest pressure, lack of attention, adverse weather conditions, or just failure to thrive. Commercial growers are familiar with this idea. We figure it into our crop projections. We know that we will lose a certain percentage of our crop because there are so many factors out of our control.

I assume that I’m going to lose 20% of my dahlia crop in my financial crop projections. I do include not being able to sell a % of the crop due to things like over production at certain times (when the dahlias are in flush but your demand doesn’t quite meet the supply) or blooms coming on at the wrong time in your sales cycle.

But most of the loss comes from things like tuber rot, possible disease (we cull at the better safe than sorry stage), or pest damage.

Loss is normal. Say it again- Loss. is. normal. Now I know it’s harder to accept when you aren’t growing 1000’s. I’ll admit that I don’t sweat it anymore (well not that much). When you grow 1000’s, losing a few hundred is normal. But when you buy 5 for your garden, it hurts losing even one. But it’s still normal.

We aren’t perfect beings and neither are our plants— They are grown by us, ya know! We as humans make mistakes. As dahlias get more and more popular, unfortunately the rate of mistakes will arise. And by mistakes I mean mislabeled tubers, possible virus in the tubers or rooted cuttings. It’s going to happen.

So what can you do about it? I’ve given it a lot of thought this summer. First off, I’ve decided to adopt an attitude of grace. It’s important to remember that we are human. We are not perfect. We make mistakes — Just like that dahlia grower who sold you the wrong tuber. Tuber sellers aren’t out to send you the wrong thing- but remember they pretty much all look alike once frost comes! It’s hard to keep track of several hundred varieties.

Every year, I trial around 100 varieties. (Yes, I’m as addicted as you are!) This means that I order from a lot of different sources, I try out new ones all the time. So I know this increases my chances of getting a mislabel, poor quality, etc.

So the second thing I’ve done is to increase my level of education. This is where it’s important to learn the symptoms of possible virus in a tuber. It’s important to evaluate and inspect each tuber that arrives. And to inspect them in a timely manner— don’t let that box sit in the corner for weeks. Being a highly educated consumer allows you to catch mistakes earlier and to protect your field from becoming virus infested.

Third, keep up with how tubers from certain sellers perform. It can be hard to figure out reputable dealers at first- this takes time. But one thing you can do is make friends with other dahlia growers— We love to talk dahlias and most are willing to share who offers great quality.

Fourth- It comes back to grace here— except that even the most reputable dealer out there is going to screw up at some point. Give them a chance to make it right before you go blabbing it to the world- just a common courtesy.

Fifth— Grace again here- but this time give it to yourself and accept that somethings are out of your control. You can have the healthiest tuber out there and then the weather comes along and hands you conditions that no tuber should have to grow in. (This has been the case a lot this season!) It sucks to lose an expensive variety but it happens and it will happen again in the future. Loss is normal. But so is success- Remember you may have lost 1 out of that 10 but 9 are still blooming their heads off!!

Remember it’s more about learning a new skill- how to grow an amazing dahlia. Learning this skill requires that you accept the idea of loss. Once you’ve accepted it as normal, it becomes less of an ordeal and you can focus on the gorgeous beauty of a garden full of dahlias!

New Dahlia Variety Highlight

Usually I wait until a little later in the season to highlight some of my new (to me) varieties but - Why wait? I’ve noticed some good ones so I thought I’d share.

Everything listed here is new in our trial field this year or on a year 2 trial.

Innocence- I grew this back in 2020 but unfortunately lost the tubers. I’m glad to have her back because she’s gorgeous. 5-7” wide, soft blush, gets softer as she ages, great vase life. She would be a stunner in the garden. It’ll be a few years but this will be in future tuber sales for sure!

Jabberbox. Such a cute name and great dahlia too. 3-4” wide, great color variation, strong stems, tall but not overly so- big enough to have presence.

Beatrice. Soft copper bronze grown in the field, soft bronze based peach grown under cover (as shown here). Early, first to bloom in our field this year. Strong stems, not super tall plant, average height.

Valley Rust Bucket. This one is going to give Brown Sugar a run for it’s money in the “rust” color category. BS is darker but I like the color variation on the petals of VRB better. Earlier blooming, strong stems, 3-3.5” plant height. 2.5-3” wide bloom

Just a few that I’ve taken notice of this year! What’s your new favorite? Drop me a line and let me know!

The Two Biggest Mistakes Beginning Dahlia Growers Make

You spent all winter stalking websites for that elusive tuber and drooling over the gorgeous pictures. Then spring came and you planted your tubers but now it’s August and it doesn’t seem to be working out like you dreamed right?

It’s pretty common to feel like you missed the mark when trying something new. For some reason, we have this expectation of getting it perfect the first time. This is totally unreasonable and if we are honest with ourselves, we know we shouldn’t be beating ourselves up over it! So let’s just take a moment and acknowledge that we are beginners and first timers make mistakes. And that’s perfectly OK!

When it comes to dahlias there are two mistakes that everybody makes. And full disclosure here- it took me more than a year or two to really master these two things. (Translation: give yourself time and grace)

Mistake #1: Support! Dahlias just like people need support. Beginners often forget to support or think about it too late. I was always in the too late crowd.

There are different methods: If you are growing a small number, then stakes or tomato cages work well. If you are growing for production then I recommend horizontal netting or using the Florida weave method (Google this if you don’t know what it is- you need to see a video to understand it). If you grow in a 3-4’ wide bed- then go the netting route. Stakes should be 5-6’ apart down the row and make sure they are sturdy. I recommend rebar or fiberglass or very thick wood stakes. I’m not a fan of wood stakes in my heavy clay soil- they just rot by the end of the season. I use all rebar. Also make sure you are capping that rebar somehow so you don’t poke an eye out during harvest.

If you grow 1-2 plants wide in long rows, then the Florida weave works well. Tying dahlias in on wide rows has never worked well for me - too much room for them to move around. But if you grow long rows, 1-2 plants wide then tying dahlias works great! You can also use netting on skinny rows too- you may just have to cut the width of the netting to size.

Last thing about support— You need to do it pre-emptively. If you are using a stake or tomato cage, then install it after planting your tuber. If you wait until later, you may stab your tubers as they are growing/multiplying under the ground. For netting, I put it on after I pinch my dahlias. It’s easier to pinch if the netting is not in the way.

Mistake #2- Food and Water! Dahlias are hungry plants and beginners don’t realize how hungry they are— think teenagers on a growth spurt kind of hungry! They need lots of water once they begin setting buds. Make sure your soil is draining well but daily water is necessary if you live in a hot climate for sure.

Weekly feeding until about the end of September if you want a regular supply of blooms- especially if you are growing for production. You can foliage feed, fertigate if you have an injector, granular, or liquid poured at the base of the plant. I’ve used all of the above except the fertigator (One Day, One Very Happy Day!)

Granular feeds are easy and I used to use them a lot before I began planting in fabric. The important part about granular feeding is that you need to water it in. I got to be a pro at getting my granular feed spread right before a tropical storm would come through. Granular is nice too because it can be time-released depending on what you use so it’s good for those who want to spend a bit less time on feeding their plants.

Foliar feeding is definitely one of the most common and also easy to do. You can put it in a bottle and spray if you are doing a few plants. Or get a backpack sprayer— this is what I recommend if you grow for production. I love mine. I use the My 4 Sons brand- Battery powered, reasonable price, charge lasts forever!

Liquid applications work well- although probably better on a small scale. Large scale liquid applications would need to go through fertigation— One day I’ll have one!

So what to feed with? Ideally you took a soil sample before planting and amended accordingly. This gives you a base from which to start. But when is life ever ideal?

In general, dahlias need a complete fertilizer when they are growing (before bud formation) and a fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium when they begin to set buds. I really like Neptune’s Harvest brand- they work well and are easy to find. Also Alaska Morbloom 0-10-10 is really good for the bud/flowering stage. Most fertilizers that work well for roses or tomatoes are suitable for dahlias too. They have similar feeding needs.

Most likely if your dreams are not materializing, they just need a little TLC. Go stake those plants this weekend. Make sure they are getting plenty of water and give them a nice meal. They’ll reward you with gorgeous blooms as the weather begins to cool this Fall!

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Dahlia Planting Dates for Hot Climates

A few months back I asked for a bit of help from the growers of the Warm Climate Dahlia Growers Group on Facebook. I asked them to share their growing zone, general geographic location and planting dates. I’ve compiled them into a spreadsheet that gives an overview of planting dates for Zones 6b-10b.

You can view the chart below. As always, consider your unique climate and also your last frost dates. If you’d like to contribute to the data, please send me an email via our Contact page.