2024 Test Dahlia Garden
So it’s been awhile since we talked dahlia varieties so let’s chat about what varieties I’m trialing for 2024! This list includes some first year trials but also varieties that are coming back for a second and third year.
The “brand new” (to me) 2024 Dahlias I’m trialing on my farm:
Bloomquist Compare
Bloomquist Wonderful
Bloomquist Mojo
Bloomquiest Alan
Bloomquist Butch G
Bloomquist York
Bloomquist Crave
Ruthie G
Solo
Normandy Bright Day
Elks Tennley Rose
Chimacum Nadjae
Ferncliff Apricot
Normandy Sweet Lucy
Westerton Lillian
GW's Calhoun Moon
Korb River Bend Jean
Sterling Silver
These below I’ve grown before but lost my stock for various reasons:
Tahoma Surething
Kenora Lisa
Camano Zoe
Bracken Rose
I’ve also got a bed of KA dahlias- some brand new and some on their 3rd year:
KA Mocha Katie (3rd year)
KA Snow Jo (3rd year)
KA Keltie Rose (3rd year)
Brand New:
KA Cinder Rose (whohoo!)
KA Mocha Maya
KA Champagne
KA Mocha Jake
KA Pearl
I’m probably missing a few but we’ll just see those when they bloom!
2nd and 3rd Year varieties that are returning for further evaluation:
Midnight Dancer
Nonette
Sylvia Craig Hunter
Doodle Bug
Ferncliff Spice
Gerrie Hoek
Copper Boy
Skipley Moonglow
Clearview Peachy
American Dawn
**Click on an image and it will turn into a pop up with the names labeled
So have you grown any of these? Do they work for the hot South? Let me know- I’d love to hear about your experiences!
Overwintered Dahlias- The Summary
I harvested the first blooms from our over-wintered dahlias this week! They are beautiful and I’m slightly addicted to dahlias even more than usual right now!
The first 2 harvested this past Sunday.
This blog serves to educate but also as a record of trials and experiments so I want to record the process here for you.
I guess it technically begins last Spring. I planted 2 rows of Blizzard tubers. I was seriously thinking about overwintering so I allowed them a bit more space. I planted 3 rows of 45 tubers in a 36” bed, 45’ long. So glad I did— they are huge this Spring.
The beds bloomed beautifully last year. In the Fall, I cut them down to the ground and tarped over them. This planting area doesn’t have raised beds and the beds aren’t raised too much above the ground level. (One of the 3 beds rotted over the winter- it was on the edge of the tarp and I think too much water got in.)
I pulled the tarps off in early March. I should have pulled off in mid February with the warm winter we had. This is a note to self for next year— pay attention to climate conditions and take tarp off earlier. Also I plan to monitor soil temps in this area next winter. When I see them hitting 60- I’ll definitely get the tarp off.
The plants were sprouted some beneath the tarp when it came off. This is a huge issue but it does make it easier if you need to weed, fertilize, add compost if the plants aren’t sprouted yet.
After removing the tarp in March
The plants began to grow but were checked about 10 days later by a frost. This is pretty normal for over-wintering dahlias in our climate. We get random harsh Spring frosts. You can protect your plants if you like but they will resprout.
After the frost mid March
They will resprout within 2 weeks usually. Fortunately we didn’t have another frost hard enough to take them down. It is a bit warmer near the ground like that.
One month later on April 19, 2024
So they were off to see how fast they could bloom. I pinched the last week of April. They could have used it about a week earlier but we had a very rainy spring and it was hard to find a dry window to do the pinch. We missed a few stems so some of the first blooms have broomstick handles.
We also fertilized at this point. Next year, we’ll lay it down right after we pull the tarp off. They can definitely use it when they get started.
Early May
We got them mulched in early May. They don’t look like they’ve grown much here b/c they are recovering from the pinch at this point.
First bud- May 9
I discovered the first bud the next week. I also documented some flooding and drainage issues in the row next door. This was the row that rotted over the winter. We corrected this row before planting- we added lots of compost and gypsum to help with the drainage. We mulched it after planting to keep the weeds down.
In the 3rd week of May we got our netting up- about 2 weeks later than we should have but fortunately not too late.
We also began the bagging process.
And about a week later— Blooms!! We were cutting the first 2, followed by a bucket more a few days later!
I’ve loved this process! I’ll definitely be doing more of it in years to come. It hasn’t been without it’s challenges. Bug control is a lot more important in early season- so many more things you have to watch out for. Just this morning we had to throw out a 1/3 of our harvest because they had so many thrips on them. We’ll keep spraying and doing what we can to address it. But I would say the good outweighs the bad!
Dahlia Q & A: May Edition
May is one of the busiest times in the “Dahlia Growing Calendar.” Almost every growing zone is planting and all the questions come flooding in! I get a lot of similar ones so I figure if one person has the question, then most likely others do too. The following are either actual questions I’ve gotten over the last month or combinations of similar questions.
Q. I’m planting my dahlias, should I add bonemeal to the hole when planting? What kind of fertilizer should I use?
A. First off, what does your soil test tell you? The reason this question is so commonly asked is because people skip the soil test. It’s vital to anything you grow!! If you’ve never taken one, click here. It’s very easy! You can mail your sample to your local extension service lab or take it in person. It’s worth it— I promise.
So to answer the question above— Do you add bonemeal? Bonemeal is a good source of calcium and phosphorus so if your soil test results tell you that you need this, then yes- it’s a great way to add it to your soil. But don’t go adding it because you heard somewhere it was a good thing to do— fertilizers are expensive so don’t waste money. Also you may throw your soil nutrients into excess levels which can be just as problematic as not having enough of a nutrient.
As for fertilization after planting, I’ve got a whole blog post about it here.
Q. I pre-sprouted my dahlias using the plastic baggy method, what do I do now?
A. So I have never used this method because it’s not conducive to growing 1000’s but I did a bit of research so here goes: If you have a plant in a plastic bag, it’s basically a mini greenhouse. So keep this in mind when moving them outside to harden them off. You’ll need to move them gradually from a shady place to a warmer spot with more sun over a period of several days. Get them planted out before the sprouts get too tall- preferably not over an inch or so. If you are curious about other methods of waking up tubers, take a read here.
Q. When you start and stop fertilizing dahlias?
A. I begin fertilizing as soon as they are up a few inches. We begin our spray maintenance program and this includes fertilizer, fungicide and organic pesticides. They young plants are super vulnerable to pests at this stage so we try to stay on top of it.
I stop fertilizing about 3-4 weeks before I’m planning to dig. This may be my last frost date or it may be before. My frosts can come late here so I just plan my dig date. If we get a frost, great! If not, no big deal. You don’t want a whole lot of new growth for the tubers to support in those last few weeks. It usually around early October when we stop fertilizing. We do however continue the pest and fungus control. 3-4 weeks also works even if you plan to leave them in the ground. Just back that date up from your average last frost date. It’ll be okay if you are off by a week or two.
Q. What makes a dahlia formal or informal?
A. I’m not quite sure who came up with the dahlia forms originally. But if you are curious as to what they are and would like to see them explained well- the American Dahlia Society has a great explanation here.
Planting- All the In's and Out's
It’s time- or it soon will be for most of us to plant our dahlias. We’ve begun the process on our farm this week. Basic planting is a fairly straight forward process but like with all things dahlias- there is always more than one way to do it.
Basic Planting Instructions: (If you’ve planted a dahlia before, skip this part)
Prepare your soil- amend according to soil test instructions. Then add a granular fertilizer with a slightly higher percentage of nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium. If you didn’t soil test, then 1.- Go do it and 2.- You can still go ahead and plant, just add the fertilizer and then add your amendments once you get the test back. It’s easier to add the amendments before planting though so — Get The Soil Test first!
After soil prep, dig a shallow hole. How deep? Depends on your soil type and climate. If you have sandy well draining soil and live where there is moderate rainfall, then 5-6” deep is great. If you have heavy clay soil and you’re still working on your drainage, then plant a generous 1.5” under the soil. This also works if you live in a heavy rainfall climate.
You can lay the tuber on it’s side or place the crown pointing up. But you may not know which end has the crown if you are new to this, so just place the tuber horizontally. The sprout will find it’s way up.
Don’t water immediately after planting. The tuber has enough moisture to get your sprout started and you’ll also get some rain anyways. Extra water is just going to contribute to rotting. If you go 3+ weeks with no rain, then give it a good soak but don’t water again until you see it sprout.
After it’s sprouted 4-5”, then you can water normally- make sure your dahlias get adequate water- not sopping wet but soil shouldn’t get bone dry and cracked between waterings.
Planting- All the Little Bits You’ve Wondered About:
This next section is just a collection of thoughts and answers to questions I see often.
1. I’m planting tubers in a hoop house- when do I begin watering? I plant my tubers inside the hoop, then take a sprinkler and soak the whole house really good once. Then I don’t turn irrigation on until the tubers begin sprouting. I usually wait until about 40-50% of the house has sprouted. You have to simulate rain inside the house to get them going.
2. My tuber has a 3-4” sprout on it, how do I plant it? Just like the instructions above. If you bury the sprout, that’s fine. It will keep growing. Just plant at the depth recommended for your soil type.
3. I took cuttings off my tubers, can I plant these? Yes- you can still plant tubers you have taken cuttings off of. I like to let my tuber re-sprout before I plant it. It’s just a little extra insurance- I don’t think this is completely necessary, just how I do it. I will cut off some of the sprouts if it resprouts multiples- I don’t leave more than 3. I also make sure these tubers get adequate fertilizer. You’ve taken cuttings off the tuber - which means you’ve removed it’s method for making more food to store up in the tuber. So these get a little extra nutrition at the beginning. Some people don’t plant a tuber they’ve taken a lot of cuttings off of- they feel it’s exhausted. But I think, if it’s still producing sprouts- then give it some good food and it will replenish itself in time. Just another example of how there’s always more than one way to do something with dahlias- This is why they are so much fun!
Re-sprouted pot tuber after a cutting has been taken
4. The sprout fell off my tuber in shipping- what do I do? Plant it. It will re-sprout. You can wait on it to re-sprout before you plant it or just put it in the ground. Either way is going to be fine- it just wants to grow.
5. My tuber shriveled in storage but I see it beginning to sprout. So- you can just put it in the ground or you can pot it up. I potted up some tubers like this awhile back. They got a little too shriveled for my taste in storage and I wanted to make sure I was going to get a good plant. So I basically turned them into dahlia plugs. Out of 100 tubers, only a small handful (less than 10) didn’t sprout and gave me a great plant. Mostly I like to just plant and not fuss but sometimes a little babying pays off!
Tubers that were shriveled or unsure if they had an eye got potted up into a 50 cell plug tray to create “dahlia plugs”
6. I received a clump of tubers in the mail, can I plant the whole thing? Yes- you can plant the whole thing- at the depth recommended for your soil type (see above). You don’t have to divide, you can if you want but it’s not necessary.
7. The clump of tubers I received has a sprout/eye on the stem. How do I plant it? If the sprout is lower on the stem near where it intersects with the tubers, then plant so that the sprout/eye is under the soil. If it’s really high- several inches up, chop the stem at the base where it intersects with the tubers and then plant the whole clump. Some varieties will eye off an old stem (looking at you Cafe Au Lait!). You don’t see this a lot but it’s not abnormal.
Got any planting questions, drop me a line here and let me know!
Dahlia Cuttings- Part 3
By this point, you’ve potted up your tuber, it’s sprouted and you’ve taken your first cuttings. They’ve been stuck in the rooting medium for a few weeks now.
So it’s time to pot them up. This is probably the easiest and least mystifying part of this whole process. If you’ve made it this far, you’re almost home free!
I like to use small pots- anywhere from a 3” to 5” size. Larger if it’s earlier in the season and the cutting will be growing out longer.
Take your cutting tray and gently pull at each sprout. If you feel resistance like you can’t easily pull it out— chances are that it has some roots. I like to use a butter knife to get them out of the plug tray. (if you used a small pot to begin with you can skip the potting up stage).
The cutting on the left has the minimum amount of roots that I want to see before I begin potting up. The cutting on the right needs another week.
Place some good potting mix in your pot, and then hollow out a small depression- about as deep as your plug tray cell. Dig the cutting- roots and all out of the tray with the butter knife. Make sure you’ve got decent roots on it— like a few white fat roots- 2-3” long. if the roots are tiny, give it another week before planting up.
Pop it into the depression in your pot, gently pat a bit of soil around it to stabilize it and firm it in. Water gently and thoroughly— It’s important that the roots and the surrounding soil have an even wetness at this stage. You don’t want any dry soil pockets or huge air pockets around your roots. Good soil to root contact!
Don’t forget to transfer your label from the plug tray!
Place the pot back on your heat mat if using and under your grow lights for another few weeks. Once it’s fully rooted into your pot, then transition it outside and begin to harden it off. If you are frost free, you can place under the grow lights for a few days and then finish the growing period outside.
To harden off, place the plant in a shady spot for a few days, then gradually move it to more sun. The process usually takes about a week.
After you’ve hardened off your plant and you are frost free for the season, it’s time to plant your dahlia in the garden!!
Congrats you’ve successfully multiplied your dahlias! And who doesn’t want more dahlias!!
BTW— Most likely that cutting is going to produce flowers faster than the tuber!
Also- you can still plant your tuber even after you’ve taken cuttings off it. I like to let them re-sprout to a few inches tall and then plant like normal.
Buying Rooted Cuttings:
Since buying dahlias as rooted cuttings is becoming more and more of a “thing” I thought it would be a good idea to discuss the process of how to handle them.
You’ll receive in the mail a small plant that has been rooted into a plug size rooting medium- may be a potting mix, an elle pot, or possibly formed peat moss plug often called Root Riots (shown below). Upon arrival, you’ll want to pot these up- do this within 24 hours, the sooner the better. If you have to wait a day, make sure the plugs are staying moist.
There may even be some yellowing leaves at the bottom of the plug- that’s okay. The plant has used what it needed from those- just remove them. Also it may have curved a bit while in the box- it’ll straighten out.
After potting up into a small pot (like the process described above), place the cutting out of strong light- remember it’s been in a box. You need to harden it off gradually and re-acclimate it to the light. You can place it under grow lights if it’s still cold outside or grow it on outdoors if weather permits. You’ll need to grow it on about 3-4 weeks depending on your pot size before planting into the garden.
Fertilizer- it’s important to fertilize your cuttings. They’ve been growing in a very small amount of space and have most likely exhausted the food in their plug so give them some love. A fertilizer high in nitrogen and a bit of phosphorus and potassium- a good liquid feed will work.
After you’ve got a fully rooted plant, it’s time to plant in your garden. Dig a hole- a bit deeper than your pot. You want to remove the lowest pair of leaves on your plant. Then plant it deep enough so that the node where those leaves where is underground. This will increase the number of tubers you get off the plant. (And yes it will form tubers and bloom in year 1).
You’ll see flowers around 2-3 weeks faster from a rooted cutting b/c they have a bit of a head start over a planted tuber.