Dahlia Trials

What To Do With Over-Wintered Dahlia Plants?

Winter of 2020-2021, I over-wintered some tubers in the ground for the first time. And— I really learned some things. Fast forward a few years and I decided to do it again this past year. I wanted a chance to fix the mistakes I made.
We still dig 95% of our tubers since we sell them each year. However, over-wintering in the ground really helps my perspective when talking dahlias with a lot of you. Most of the home gardeners in my area leave their tubers in the ground. We don’t freeze hard enough for the ground to freeze solid. As long as you have good drainage, your tubers will do just fine in the ground. (Zone 7b-8a, South Carolina) In fact, I recommend most people leave them in unless they have a temperature and humidity control storage environment.

A Bed of Dahlias From mid April 2021

Overwintering in the ground works pretty reliably in Zone 7 and above. Some zone 6 can do it. Occasionally I hear about a zone 5 but that takes some work and I wouldn’t risk it.

So when you overwinter, your tubers will begin to sprout once your ground gets warm enough. We overwintered in 2 different environments- on our farm in a cooler than average spot. The second was our off farm plot that sits high and very open to the wind. In early March I began checking to see if they were resprouting. I found our off farm plot was already greening up when I removed the tarp. This location gets full sun all day so the soil is a bit warmer even though it is more exposed. It runs warmer when the suns out but much colder on a freezing night than our home farm.
The home farm area sits between 2 hoop houses so has wind protection but that also means a bit of shade and gets enough sun to grow dahlias but not 100% all day full sun. So in early March, those tuber clumps were still slumbering when we removed the tarp. I noticed that this week (3 weeks after removing the cover) they were beginning to sprout.
*** Side Note— Do you have to use a tarp to cover during the winter? No- We used one for several reasons: weed control. We needed to kill off some weed pressure on the off farm plot. We also needed to be able to control how much water was getting in because that plot doesn’t have as good of drainage as our on farm plot. (in fact, we lost about 50% of one variety on that plot) As long as you planted in an area with good drainage, I’d recommend a bit of mulch and that will work just fine in the home garden. ***

Now- you’ve probably already thought— It’s March- do you really want your tubers sprouting then? Well no- but it’s not the end of the world and when you leave them in the ground, you have to roll with the punches. So I’ve been taking pictures over the past few weeks of what’s been happening:

The above pictures are from right after we removed the tarp from the off farm plot. You can see how the tips got a bit burned from not getting the tarp off sooner. But I didn’t worry about it because I knew we had a frost coming.

after an early Spring Frost

When you let your tubers sprout naturally, you are probably going to have a frost that knocks them back at some point. So I just let it happen because I knew they’d resprout.

Resprouted tuber after a spring frost

This picture above is about 8-10 days after the frost picture. It doesn’t take long. They may go frosty again- we are still 3 weeks from our last frost date. But it’s okay because I know they’ll resprout again.

The first time I over-wintered, I covered with frost cloth each time we got a Spring frost. But I learned that was just extra work- they are going to do what the weather tells them. And once we level off temperature wise, they will grow like crazy!

So what do we do with these dahlias once they sprout and stay sprouted? Fertilize!!! This was a major mistake I made the first time I over-wintered. I didn’t fertilize early enough. Once they are sprouted, begin your fertilization. They need food- they are hungry after that long winter’s nap!
Also make sure to re-install any support structures if you removed them throughout the winter. They will need them sooner than you think.

Lastly- the question I always get: So if I over-winter in the ground, should I divide my tubers and if so how often?
For years, leaving tubers in and rarely dividing was the norm. However— in this day and age of virus potential in dahlias, I think it’s good to check your tubers often. So I recommend digging up your tubers at least every other year to check for gall diseases (crown and leafy). It’s hard to tell above the surface if you have these. You can then divide or just put the clump back into the ground. If you are introducing a lot of new varieties each year, I would check more often- I’d dig your clumps each spring, inspect and then replant.

Yes- I know this is extra work but it will go a long way to keeping your plants healthy!

So go check those clumps— hopefully you’ve got some green sprouts! If you need help dividing your tubers, come join our workshop on April 13- Dahlia Dividing and Planting. It’ll be a morning of exploring the beauty of Spring on a flower farm and learning how to divide your tubers like a pro! Sign up Here!

Dahlia Game Plan 2024: Choosing Varieties

What dahlias should I grow? What will thrive in this hot humid climate?

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been asked that question. Often people assume that I just pick what I think is pretty. And yes- looks play into it. But the longer I grow in a hot climate, I understand that it takes more than just good looks to thrive here!

So what factors do I consider when choosing varieties for our trial gardens?

Customer preference: I grow a lot of flowers for florists who do very fancy weddings so that influences my color choices- white (always white!), pinks, peaches, neutral blending colors and a few burgundies mostly. Maybe you grow for a farmers market- that would influence your color choices - brights and fun colors!
If you have a home garden, this would mean you choose a color you like or that fits in your garden color scheme. Thankfully there are tons of dahlias out there so you can choose several in your color and then see if they fit the rest of the characteristics.

Heat tolerance: You hear this term thrown around a lot in the dahlia world- especially down South here. But what does it mean? Well that may depend on who you ask. But for me it means a few things:

  1. The center of the dahlia stays closed in high temperatures.

  2. The plant stays healthy with minimal maintenance through high temps

  3. The bloom has a decent (4-6 days) vase life in high temps. Some dahlias will bloom in high heat but then will only last 2-3 days.

Peaches N Cream is an excellent example of a highly heat tolerant variety

Classification: There are lots of classes of dahlias but mainly I’m concerned with balls, decorative, waterlily, and formal to semi-formal types. Those work well as cut flowers and are also what my customers prefer.

Size: I do love the WOW factor of a 12” bloom but the reality is that my customers have no use for it. So I grow a few large blooms but mostly stick to things in the 3-6” size range.

One nice thing about growing in the South is that larger varieties do tend to shrink a bit here. Cafes are regularly more 6-7” in size than their normal dinner plate scale you may see elsewhere.

Orientation: Dahlia blooms can sit several different ways on a stem and that plays a bit factor in how you arrange/design with the bloom. Some face upwards, some face forwards (often called “clock facing”) and some sit at a 45 degree angle. The 45 angle is probably the most desirable and what I try to find. But I’m not going to turn down Cafe Au Lait just because she’s usually clock facing!

Petal Density: I’ve learned through many years of observation that dahlias with higher petal densities hold their shapes better. Ball dahlias with high density of petals tend to not blow their centers as quickly. You do have to let these open up a little longer to get a really full look but it’s worth the extra day or two.

Height: For me, I tend to choose varieties under 5’ because I live in an area that can get strong tropical storms. I cut out all the super tall dahlias (looking at you Lady Nathalie) because they always blew over no matter how many layers of netting we used!

Bloom time: I really like dahlias that bloom early. One- because I’m impatient to see them but also because I grow in a long climate area and I can usually get 2 strong flushes out of early blooming varieties. On the flip side, our long climate gives us a chance to grow varieties that take 120+ days to bloom (looking at you Nicholas) My favorite early varieties are Peaches N Cream, Sweet Fabienne, and Linda’s Baby.

Bred in the right climate: Years ago you couldn’t find dahlias that were bred in hot climates, but these days there are a few places you can get them. I really do think the breeding climate makes a difference. I see dahlias from hot climate breeders thrive from year one. Whereas sometimes I have to grow a dahlia from elsewhere a few years to get it acclimated to our climate. So look around and find out who’s breeding close by.

We all have different things we are looking for in our dahlias. But over the years the above characteristics are what I have found that attribute to varieties that are successful in my field.

My Top 5 Garden Dahlias in 2023

I love to trial new varieties- in fact it’s hard to keep up with so many varieties most of the time! But in doing so, I always find some gems. I’m mostly on the hunt for good cut flowers varieties that give lots of blooms in my Southern heat. But occasionally I find some that make great Garden Dahlias.

What makes a Garden Dahlia versus a Cut Flower variety? Most dahlias are good cut flowers but there are definitely some that are better than others. And you can grow most dahlias in a landscape style garden setting too! But when I say “this is a garden dahlia” - What I mean is - This variety stands up well on it’s own or with very little support (they are usually shorter varieties) and they also give a steady supply of blooms. Some dahlias throw all their blooms at once and then you don’t see another bloom for 6 a month. Steady color is an important aspect of a garden dahlia.

My Top 5 Favorite Garden Dahlias for 2023:

Muchacha:

You gotta love this one for the name alone— say it multiple times, you’ll love it! This dahlia is around 3’, beautiful darker foliage and strong stems. The blooms are darker, more purple toned in warm weather and then the colors begin to soften and merge into one another more as it cools. It also occasionally throws an off color like the mainly white pictured above. (I think blooms like that are fun in the garden because they are a nice surprise!) This one has a growth habit that produces stems long enough for cutting so it works as a cut and a garden dahlia. It’s a mid season bloomer and then keeps going until frost. It’s color allows it to blend easily with other tones in a bouquet or your garden.

Totally Tangerine:

Totally Tangerine- What a great anemone dahlia! Beautiful color and so many blooms! This dahlia began early August for me and bloomed her head off for a month. Then I cut it back by half and within about 3 weeks she was blooming again! This is a variety that benefits from deadheading a bit more regularly than other garden dahlias because it produces so many blooms. Doesn’t hold up well in a vase- I could really only get 2 days, occasionally 3. But it you want a dahlia to attract pollinators to your garden, this is the one. It’s also not super tall 2.5-3’ Needs little support- you could plant it between other plants and it would be just fine. Good tuber maker too so you can multiple your own stock!

Esli:

Esli was brand new for us this year! And I’ll have to admit I was a bit disappointed at first— she was short! Such a pretty bloom but barely long enough to cut. But then I began to watch her and boy, did she pump out the blooms! She only grew to about 2.5’ in my field - she put all the energy into bloom production. This dahlia would be fantastic in a border. And she’s does make a good cut flower- just not really a production cut flower (stems just aren’t quite long enough). Her bloom begins med pink with a darker center and then fades to a nice pinky salmon as it sits in the vase. It’s a beautiful progression to watch.

Valley Rust Bucket:

This one is definitely a good cut flower but I’m putting her on the garden list because I think she makes a really good garden variety too! (She pairs well with Brown Sugar as shown in the group picture above. Valley Rust Bucket is the smaller bloom) I like the 2 tone reverse coloring but I wish the bloom was a bit bigger. But she’s prolific, has a nice upright growth habit with strong stems that make it ideally suited for a garden. It also begins blooming early which means you are going to get a nice long season of blooms!

Mystique:

I know there are going to be some people who disagree with me on this one. That’s ok! I absolutely love the color on Mystique — which is why I’ve grown it for 4 years, hoping it would make the grade as a cut! But it just doesn’t have it— as soon as I cut this variety, the stems get floppy. I’ve grown it in different conditions every year. But this year, I stopped cutting it after about 2 weeks and just let it bloom. And— I noticed it’s a great dahlia- for the garden. This one is taller than most “garden dahlias” but it has a nice upright habit and would look great at the back of the border. It definitely deserves a spot in your garden but not the production field.

Now, I know that’s 5 but I’m going to throw in an honorable mention for one of the 2022 varieties: Yvonne! I grew this one again for the first time in a few years. I gotta admit, I love it! It’s petals can be a little delicate but I think it’s worth a bit of extra special care. The blooms are so beautiful!

If you’d like to see the 2022 list, click here, enter your email and it will be emailed to you!

All the above dahlias will be available in our upcoming dahlia tuber sale. Sale begins November 17. Make sure you are on the Dahlia Lovers Newsletter for all the details!

Who Gets the Boot?

It’s that time of year- time to make the calls. Who gets to stay and who goes. I’m still undecided on a few and won’t make decisions on those until this winter. But I have identified a few that won’t be back in 2024.

***Disclaimer: I’m a cut flower grower so I’m looking for productivity, good tuber makers, certain colors, certain growth habits, etc. None of the following dahlias are “bad”. I wouldn’t put any of them on a ‘absolutely do not grow list’— they just aren’t right for my field.

Here we go:

Cryfield Harmony: I really hate to cut this one because it’s productive and an early bloomer. But in our heat, the center doesn’t ever close completely and is a big yellow blob in high temps. Now— if I was a cool climate grower- I’d give this one a try. It’s color is amazing (and was what I was looking for). It also has better than average vase life. (You may recognize this one from the vase life trials blog)

Cryfield Harmony

Mystique: I’ve grown this one for 3 years because I really wanted it to work. The color is to die for and not easily found in the dahlia world. But she’s just a bobble head. She does make a great productive dahlia for your home garden though. She’s an early bloomer too so you can enjoy her for several months of the season. Dark stems and dark foliage make a stunning combo.

Mystique

Muchacha: It’s a shame to cut a dahlia with such a great name! Gonna miss saying that. This one is really a great dahlia but just not what I’m looking for. She’s a bit small and her coloring is dark purple with some golden yellow. The original pictures I saw online looked burgundy and pink mix- which was what I was expecting but once again- temps and amount of light is playing havoc with the colors. I would highly recommend this one as a great addition to the home garden though- prolific and very sturdy plants that don’t require much support!

Muchacha

Crazy 4 Wylie Quinn: Once again- well bred dahlia but wrong color. The picture on the website showed a coral orange ball type. I got a florescent two tone orange- Big Nope! I forgot to take a picture but trust me- big no.

Beatrice: I want to like this one because it’s a great color, shape, and early bloomer but that big yellow center is just a killer! I think this one would be an excellent choice for a cool season grower.

Beatrice

Hapet Perfekt: This one was lovely last year but this year, it’s forming very oddly and blowing it’s center very quickly. It’s a bit much for me color wise honestly. I think there are other better large dahlias so with limited space to dedicate to large dahlias, I’ll move on.

Hapet Perfekt

Polyventon Supreme: Yes- this was on last year’s cut list and I added it back at the last minute. I wish it’s color was a bit more muted. It’s just a tad too neon. But it’s a great tuber maker, sturdy stems, prolific. So if you like bright yellow- give it a go. It’s definitely going this time.

That’s the list so far. It will grow between now and next May! I need to cut 30-40 varieties minimum. I’ve trialed so many over the past years that now it’s time to settle on the good ones and grow lots of those!

So who’s on your cut list?

Dahlia Vase Life Trials: The Boiling Water Method

I’ve written a lot on getting the best vase life for your dahlias— But my best recommendation is always to use a flower cooler. However, the backyard dahlia grower doesn’t often have access to a professional flower cooler. So today I’d like to share results of another method of getting great vase life from your dahlias.

The Boiling Water Method is often mentioned as being a way to extend the vase life of your dahlias. But what does that mean exactly?

To use this method: You boil water (an electric kettle works great!), give your dahlia a fresh snip at the bottom of the stem (about 1/4”), then dip and hold it in the boiling water for about 30 seconds. Then place it immediately in your vase for display.

I remember using this method the first year I grew dahlias. I didn’t have access to any professional methods of cooling my flowers. But I couldn’t really remember if it worked or not. So I decided to run my own trial.

I chose 6 stems of the same dahlia harvested at the same time/day. This is Cryfield Harmony. (Note: the yellow center is not a result of cutting too late, just a heat response, this trial was conducted in August in the South)

Here’s how I conducted the trial: Stems were harvested early in the morning into a bucket with just water. Then they were allowed to rest in a 65-70 degree room for a few hours. After a few hours, I divided them up. Jar #1- I recut the stems and placed them in a vase with just water. Jar #2- I recut the stems and placed them in a jar with water and the appropriate amount of flower food. Jar #3- I recut the stems, dipped into boiling water for 30 seconds and then placed them into a jar with water and flower food.

**I always use flower food in my vase water with dahlias because I know for a fact that it increases vase life. My goal here was to see if the boiling water actually gave any boost to the vase life in addition to the flower food. **

The blooms looked great for several days with no sign of decay. Stems were held in my living room which stays around 70 degrees. I did not change the water or recut the stems from day one to the end of the trial.

On day 6, I began to see signs of browning and fading on the dahlia in Jar 1 (just water).

Jar 1, Day 6

On Day 7, I saw signs of fading/browning on the dahlias in Jar 2 and 3.

Jar 2, Day 7

Jars 2 and 3 began to fade at the same time but I noticed that Jar 2 definitely faded faster whereas Jar 3 was only beginning to turn brown on some petals.

Jar 3, Day 7

So what does all this tell me: Well obviously to get really accurate results, you’d need to repeat the experiment and also try it out with multiple varieties of dahlias. But generally speaking, boiling water doesn’t add any vase life over water with flower food.

My suggestion for increasing your vase life (for a backyard dahlia grower) remains to use flower food in your water. It’s just much easier and faster. If you don’t have flower food or don’t want to use it, then give the boiling water method a try- I think it would increase your vase life over straight water with no prior processing of the stem.

Notes:
What kind of flower food am I referring to: I use either Chrysal Professional #3 Vase Solution or Floralife Flower Food 300 - either works, whatever you can find. This is the white powdery stuff in the packets you get when you buy a bouquet. You can buy small pails of it on Amazon and other online market places.
Previous blog on increasing vase life in your dahlias- Click here.

Disclaimer: I know some people who swear by the boiling water method and if it’s working for you- then continue it! Keep in mind that health of plant, hydration and growing climate play a big role in the vase life of your dahlia. Most importantly— make sure you are enjoying them!!