Dahlia Cuttings- Part 2

For part 2 of this series, we are jumping forward about a month- that’s how long it will take until you see the tubers beginning to sprout. It’ll go a bit faster the later you start them in the spring but normally it’s around a month before you have sprouts big enough to take a cutting. Generally speaking you want to have around 10-12 weeks to go through this process so start about 2.5 months before you want to plant.

Alright- you’ve potted up your highly coveted tuber varieties and now they are beginning to sprout. It’s time to take the cuttings.

Wiggle the shoot back and forth until it snaps off from the tuber. I used to take cutting twice this size and use snips or a knife to remove them. But I learned (Thanks Drew at Clara Joyce) that the smaller shoots root better and snap off easier- this way is faster to get your cuttings but also faster to root. I’ve had much higher success rates since I started this method.

If you are using a larger cutting like shown here, remove some of the foliage so that the rootless cutting doesn’t have as much leaf surface to support. You need enough to photosynthesize with but not so much that it is constantly wilting.

Take a pencil, bamboo skewer, etc. and make a hole in your potting soil. I like to use a 72 plug tray but a small pot would work well. Small pot as in 2-3”, don’t go any bigger than that right now, smaller if you can.

Dip the cutting into rooting hormone if you like. I would try some with rooting hormone and some without- I’ve done both ways. I personally like rooting hormone. As for brands— look for the ones with cannabis plants on them. Cannabis growers do lots of cuttings so they usually know their stuff when it comes to rooting. You want to pre-poke the hole so your rooting hormone doesn’t rub off while you poke the cutting in. I’ve been using Hormodin 3 this year with great results.

As for rooting mediums- there are options: potting soil, sand, perlite, etc. You need something very light- stay away from straight compost. Free draining is good. Some potting soils work great, but some hold too much moisture. We’ve been using a product called “Elle Pots” this year. They are a paperlike sleeve filled with peat and perlite. They’ve been holding the moisture level very well. I’d love to find a peat alternative though (if you know one - holler!)

Place your cutting into your pre-poked hole, label it!! Make sure you label it- I use vinyl blinds written on with pencil. That will last all season if needed. Then place a humidity dome on top or use a plastic bag if you are rooting into a small pot.

I feel like I should put this next part in all caps- not because I want to yell but because it’s really important!

Rooting anything is all about conditions and timing. Taking the cutting at the right stage of growth- which fortunately isn’t too finicky with dahlias is important (mostly this is an issue with woody shrubs). The conditions after you slice the shoot from the tuber are important! Essentially you are putting the plant on life support until it grows roots. So you gotta’ pay attention. Your powers of observation are your most important tool here. Observe how wet the soil is, how dry, how warm, how cold. Humidity around the cutting needs to be high. Humid environment is going to be your best chance for success until you get some roots going. Most dahlias take around 2 weeks to begin to show roots.
You can use a heat mat if you have one, if not, go for a warm spot—needs to be around 70 degrees. The soil temps needs to be around 70- so a warm room or a heat mat will work. We used a warm room this year because I didn’t have enough heat mats for the amount of cuttings we took. I encased a portion of my basement in plastic and then put a small space heater in there with a temperature gauge and it worked great!

Check your cuttings at least twice a day until you get used to your rooting environment conditions. Make sure that humidity is staying high. Rooting media should be moist but not soaking wet. Too wet and it will rot. The cutting will tell you but you have to pay attention. This is not plant it and forget it gardening. This is— baby it with all you got!!

Also make sure you are giving the plant light! You don’t have to have a fancy grow light. I’ve used shop lights for years but it needs a concentrated source of light. After about 10 days, give the cutting a little tug and see if it’s rooted. After 2-3 weeks, you can pot it up into a bigger pot until it’s time to plant out. I recommend a 4-6” size pot.

Lastly, let’s talk about expectations. If it’s your first time or even if you’ve tried a bit before- Don’t expect it to work perfectly. Rooting plants is loads of fun but it’s also a learning process. I find plant propagation one of the best parts of my job. But I’ll admit it took a while to learn to do it. And I still have cuttings that don’t root. Plants are natural things and we don’t have complete control over them so sometimes it’s just not gonna work. You’ll never get 100% success. Don’t beat yourself up over it. Stop and take inventory of the situation— figure out what worked and what didn’t and try again.

The good news—- that tuber is gonna make another sprout where you just cut one off— in fact, it’ll probably make two!!

PS- Here’s Part 1 in case you missed it!

Dahlia Cuttings- Part 1

We all wish we could have more of the most coveted varieties! However, if you have at least one viable tuber- You Can! This is the first in a multi-part series on dahlia cuttings. Part 1 is all about getting your tubers sprouted. There are of course many ways to do this but here’s my take.

I take a 1020 tray with a webbed bottom insert. I like to double layer my tray like this because this means I can drain off any extra water. It’s easy to rot tubers during this process so you want to keep a close eye on how much water you are using.

Fill the tray with moist but not wet potting mix or a seed starting mix— either will work. You just need a medium that will hold moisture. I’ve seen some people use sand. I like it moist enough that just a little bit of water comes out when you squeeze a clump in your hand.

Inspect your tubers for any signs of leafy or crown gall. Ideally you would have gotten rid of those tubers in the fall while digging but we all miss things sometimes. Also I tend to separate tubers from my farm and those that are new from other farms for the year. You definitely want to have some viral and disease awareness at this stage and separating your stock helps a lot. At the end of you season, if you know you want to take cuttings of a variety, it’s a good idea to virus test it before you frost out for the season.

Insert your tubers with the necks facing up. You want at least an inch or two of the tuber bottom covered with dirt. Make sure you can see your label or add a label in the tray. Arrange them so you can get to the neck/crown area easily to pull your cuttings when they sprout.

You can get a fair bit of tubers in one tray. If you aren’t needing to root a lot, you can pot them into individual pots. Anything that drains and holds soil will do!

Now place your trays on a heat mat set to 65-70ish. It’s also helpful to go ahead and set up your grow lights so that as soon as they begin to sprout, they’ll have the light they need. If you don’t have heat mats, bring the tubers into your house. Most homes are warm enough during this time of year to get them sprouting. I’ve also put them in a small room with a space heater to get the temp to 70. This gets them started to sprout fairly quickly. Within 3-4 weeks, you’ll begin to see the first sprouts. Some varieties can take 6-8 weeks, so don’t give up on them. Keep the soil moist but on the dry side of moist. I let mine get pretty dry before I water again.

This is Rock Run Ashley— one of my greatest rooting successes! I started with 2 tubers several years ago. Grew those out and then multiplied those into well over a hundred within 2 years via cuttings. Cuttings are an easy and fun way to multiply your stock.

I’ll be back soon with the next steps in the process!

What To Do With Over-Wintered Dahlia Plants?

Winter of 2020-2021, I over-wintered some tubers in the ground for the first time. And— I really learned some things. Fast forward a few years and I decided to do it again this past year. I wanted a chance to fix the mistakes I made.
We still dig 95% of our tubers since we sell them each year. However, over-wintering in the ground really helps my perspective when talking dahlias with a lot of you. Most of the home gardeners in my area leave their tubers in the ground. We don’t freeze hard enough for the ground to freeze solid. As long as you have good drainage, your tubers will do just fine in the ground. (Zone 7b-8a, South Carolina) In fact, I recommend most people leave them in unless they have a temperature and humidity control storage environment.

A Bed of Dahlias From mid April 2021

Overwintering in the ground works pretty reliably in Zone 7 and above. Some zone 6 can do it. Occasionally I hear about a zone 5 but that takes some work and I wouldn’t risk it.

So when you overwinter, your tubers will begin to sprout once your ground gets warm enough. We overwintered in 2 different environments- on our farm in a cooler than average spot. The second was our off farm plot that sits high and very open to the wind. In early March I began checking to see if they were resprouting. I found our off farm plot was already greening up when I removed the tarp. This location gets full sun all day so the soil is a bit warmer even though it is more exposed. It runs warmer when the suns out but much colder on a freezing night than our home farm.
The home farm area sits between 2 hoop houses so has wind protection but that also means a bit of shade and gets enough sun to grow dahlias but not 100% all day full sun. So in early March, those tuber clumps were still slumbering when we removed the tarp. I noticed that this week (3 weeks after removing the cover) they were beginning to sprout.
*** Side Note— Do you have to use a tarp to cover during the winter? No- We used one for several reasons: weed control. We needed to kill off some weed pressure on the off farm plot. We also needed to be able to control how much water was getting in because that plot doesn’t have as good of drainage as our on farm plot. (in fact, we lost about 50% of one variety on that plot) As long as you planted in an area with good drainage, I’d recommend a bit of mulch and that will work just fine in the home garden. ***

Now- you’ve probably already thought— It’s March- do you really want your tubers sprouting then? Well no- but it’s not the end of the world and when you leave them in the ground, you have to roll with the punches. So I’ve been taking pictures over the past few weeks of what’s been happening:

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The above pictures are from right after we removed the tarp from the off farm plot. You can see how the tips got a bit burned from not getting the tarp off sooner. But I didn’t worry about it because I knew we had a frost coming.

after an early Spring Frost

When you let your tubers sprout naturally, you are probably going to have a frost that knocks them back at some point. So I just let it happen because I knew they’d resprout.

Resprouted tuber after a spring frost

This picture above is about 8-10 days after the frost picture. It doesn’t take long. They may go frosty again- we are still 3 weeks from our last frost date. But it’s okay because I know they’ll resprout again.

The first time I over-wintered, I covered with frost cloth each time we got a Spring frost. But I learned that was just extra work- they are going to do what the weather tells them. And once we level off temperature wise, they will grow like crazy!

So what do we do with these dahlias once they sprout and stay sprouted? Fertilize!!! This was a major mistake I made the first time I over-wintered. I didn’t fertilize early enough. Once they are sprouted, begin your fertilization. They need food- they are hungry after that long winter’s nap!
Also make sure to re-install any support structures if you removed them throughout the winter. They will need them sooner than you think.

Lastly- the question I always get: So if I over-winter in the ground, should I divide my tubers and if so how often?
For years, leaving tubers in and rarely dividing was the norm. However— in this day and age of virus potential in dahlias, I think it’s good to check your tubers often. So I recommend digging up your tubers at least every other year to check for gall diseases (crown and leafy). It’s hard to tell above the surface if you have these. You can then divide or just put the clump back into the ground. If you are introducing a lot of new varieties each year, I would check more often- I’d dig your clumps each spring, inspect and then replant.

Yes- I know this is extra work but it will go a long way to keeping your plants healthy!

So go check those clumps— hopefully you’ve got some green sprouts! If you need help dividing your tubers, come join our workshop on April 13- Dahlia Dividing and Planting. It’ll be a morning of exploring the beauty of Spring on a flower farm and learning how to divide your tubers like a pro! Sign up Here!

Waking Up Your Tubers

For some reason, the beginning and end of dahlia season seem to be the most confusing for new dahlia growers. I get so many questions about what to do with tubers to get them started and what to do with them during the winter. Well- let’s talk about Spring stuff since we are almost there- only a few days!

If you need a quick refresher about what to do when your tubers arrive- Click here for last week’s post.

OK— So— Waking those tubers up from their winter nap:

First thing: Do you have to wake up your tubers? No- they will be perfectly fine if you unpack them from storage and plant. This process is not necessary but does have some advantages.

Advantages- If you live in a short season climate, waking tubers up gives you a bit of a jump and makes sure you have blooms before it frosts.

If you have a small garden, waking tubers up makes sure you take advantage of every space and you don’t plant a dud. This applies to commercial growers too- we don’t plant anything we don’t see a viable eye on b/c we need every spot to be productive!

So how do you it? It’s very simple- Take your tubers from their storage location and move them to a frost free place that’s around 65-70 degrees. A little warmer is okay but not too much. You still need to be paying attention to humidity b/c if not, it’s possible for your tubers to shrivel at this point. So keep that humidity high 80-90% if possible.

Keep checking on your tubers regularly and within about 2 weeks you’ll see a few starting to swell at the eyes- there will be green or purple (occasionally white) nubbins which will turn into sprouts. Once you see these, you can plant if you are past your last frost date. This process is called “eyeing” up your tubers. Eyeing up your tubers can help them to sprout a little quicker when you plant.

Few more questions I get — Do you need to remove them from the storage medium? Maybe— The medium can help you control humidity. This is why you need to monitor them. We remove ours from the storage medium and we usually put a lid on our container for a few days. BUT— I always check in after 2-3 days. If I see any sign of condensation on the container, I will crack the lid.
Do I need to pot them up into containers with potting soil? This is not required for the “eyeing up/waking up” process. The only need to pot up would be if you desire to take cuttings or really need to get a head start on growing them. Potting up with soil is going to be like planting them- so you’ll need lights and a place for them to grow and will actually mean you are looking after them for much longer (6-8 weeks) before planting out. So you only need to do this if you have a very short season or need a super early bloom.

Now you may be thinking, this is too much trouble- Can’t I just plant them when I receive them? Well that depends- if you are past your last frost date, then most likely you’ll be fine to plant. Why do I say most likely? B/c ideally you need your ground to be warm, 55-65 degrees to really get the tuber going. A last frost date by definition is just when you have a 50% chance or greater of not having a frost. But what really matters is your soil temps. So it never hurts to wait a bit. Or if you get impatient (like I often do), lay a black tarp/plastic over the area a few weeks before last frost and it will warm your soil up!

I know this has been a post with a lot of caveats- but that’s just growing anything. Everyone’s climate is a bit different. Microclimates play a big role in how well things grow. So remember- There’s no set way to start a dahlia- you have options. Pick the one that’s best for you!

What to do when your tubers arrive?

Tubers are arriving! I love this time of year because it really feels like Christmas- new plants and tubers arriving almost every week!!

So what do you do when that long awaited box shows up at your door?

Well- You open the box! I’m not trying to be sarcastic here but seriously— Open the Box! People get busy and leave them for a day or two in the box. This is not good. Remember tubers are dormant but they are still living things. So Open the Box!

Then remove them from their packaging. This will vary according to seller. (This shipment is from Eagle Dahlia Farm by the way. First time I’ve ordered from them and the tubers look great!) I remove mine from the plastic bags. Let’s just say I’ve had bad experiences — moldy tubers from leaving them in a closed plastic bag. Kudos to this farm for cutting a slit in the plastic bag to give the tuber some air. I think that’s a great idea. You could also leave the tuber in the bag and make sure the top is wide open.

After removing from the bag— Label them right away! I use an abbreviation system. So for example, this tuber was labeled HHCC. I’ll record it on my spread sheet as Hollyhill Cotton Candy= HHCC. You can write the whole name on there if you like.

Next up- inspect the tuber. It should be firm, slightly soft is okay but not squishy. Some tubers store better than others. Also it’s not unusual to see the end cut off like this. A lot of growers do it to inspect for rot inside the tuber. The cut will be healed over by the time you receive it.

This tuber already has an eye sprouting. This is great! Sometimes tubers will be “eyed up”— showing the beginnings of sprouting. But they don’t have to be. It depends on if the grower took the tubers out of cold storage a few weeks before shipping. Either way, if a tuber is planted or potted up, it should begin to eye in 3-7 weeks. Most will eye in 3-4 but some take as long as 8 weeks- so don’t give up on them.

If you want to take cuttings from your tuber, pot it up right away. If you are going to hold the tubers until time to plant, hold them in a 40-45 degree area and at about 80-90% humidity (if you have more than 3-4 weeks until planting time). If you are within 3-4 weeks of your planting time when they arrive, you can usually leave them at room temp. Make sure they can breathe. Also check on them weekly to make sure they aren’t shriveling. If they begin to shrivel, pot them up so that they get a bit of moisture from the damp soil. This will help preserve the tuber until time to plant out. A single tuber or potted up— either gives the same result. I’m going to be taking cuttings from these so they’ll get potted up right away.

Tuber size can vary a lot. It varies by variety- some produce long skinny tubers (looking at you Rip City!), some big fat round ones (like Cornel or Diva). As long as the tuber is firm and has a viable eye- it’s going to grow. So don’t worry if you get a smaller tuber. Pictured below is a clump of Blizzard tubers. The small tuber in front was the original tuber planted (often called the Mother tuber). Blizzard is a great tuber producer but usually produces smaller tubers. As you can see, it doesn’t take much to get a good clump!

**Originally published March 2022, updated March 2024.